#3601 Tray Calibration

The purpose of this calibration is to have a good parallelism via the position of the extruder on the plate. Incorrect calibration can result in a bad first layer print on other errors. These errors can be a print that is too squashed in some places, and not sticking to the tray in others.

Adjustment of the left and right back stitches

The principle is to position a piece of paper under the nozzle at the back left point. A classic sheet of paper is 1/10th of a millimeter, this is the expansion of the head at printing temperature. The nozzle will be flush with the tray when hot. Then, make a Home Z and adjust the knob (on the left) in order to feel the paper rubbing between the nozzle and the plate without blocking it or making it difficult to move. This gives you a gap of 1/10th between the nozzle and the plate.

Once this is done, by clicking on next, the machine will move to the right. The goal here is to make the parallelism between right and left. Since the left point has a fixed marker, it is up to the right side to line up. To do this, move the right point up or down via the menu. The sheet should rub in the same way as in the left stitch.

If a movement is too great, the machine will return to the left to check and compensate for it. A large movement to the right can strongly influence the left point.
When the right correction is less than 1/10th, the machine will switch to the right front stitch.

Be careful not to put your hand on the tray during the manipulations because the weight of it will completely distort all the adjustments.

Left and right front stitches adjustment

The front stitches should now be aligned with the back stitches using the knobs under the tray on each respective side. The goal is to have the same friction as on the 2 back points.
Once this is done, the flatness of the tray will be done, you just have to evaluate at the first impression if the general zero point is good or too high/too low.

It is therefore the wheel on the left that becomes the global setting. If your first layer looks crushed, then move your zero point up a bit (clockwise, 1 mark = 1/10th of a millimeter). You can use the “Z setting” function on the screen to determine the ideal value and then transfer it to the dial.

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